The second installment of Wing's adventures cycling across Canada.
Thunder Bay - Nipigon - Terrace Bay - White Lake - Lake Superior Provincial Park
July 28, 2008
We passed our half way mark for both days and distance this week. We have a half way lunch at a park along the route. It is interesting that before the trip, I have a count down on my computer. As of now, we are having a count down to the end of the trip. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy most of the trip, even when it was raining. BUT, the mosquitoes are driving me crazy. Whatever you exposed to the air, it will size up in seconds by the vampire. Then the itch won’t go away for days………………
The series of rides for this stretch has been nothing but long. Okay, I have to be fair. For most of the riders, the scenery has been good. However, it is very similar to the scenery of the west coast of British Columbia, where I came from, the water and mountain scenery is not that much a big deal for me. During these few days, my favorite was to sprint for several electricity poles and ease off, or sprint up the hill and cruise down the hill (if it is not going up again). The Canadian Shield is definitely not the Rocky, but there are some steep ones. Otherwise, I just follow the white line and practice to ride on a straight line. Recently, I find another new one is to chase down the pace line of the young guns and see how far I can follow them at ten bikes length. That’s pretty boring, I know. These few days I actually feel like going to a bike training camp.
In less than a week, we should be back to civilization. I can visit those small towns again. As of now, we rarely pass by a truck stop, don’t mention about towns. Along the route, the resorts are mostly having for sale signs on the door and the windows are boarded up. I am not sure because of the economy or something else.
Until next time.
Sault Ste Marie July 29, 2008
Greetings,
This is our rest day, which supposed to be in a campground, about 30 km outside Sault Ste Marie. We felt so miserable in the middle of no where that we have to travel one km to the nearest "village" for our meals, a group with rebel genes in the blood, packed up and rode into Sault Ste Marie this morning. We found connected rooms in Traveler's Lodge and got a taste of civilization again. Then, the dirty dozen is going to meet up again at 5pm for dinner, and I have promised that I am not going to deny any form of drinks and will stay till at least till 10pm. I hope can still able to ride tomorrow.
So far, I have a pretty good impression of Sault Ste Marie, especially the waterfront. There are lots of updated buildings along the waterfront with tasteful design. Same as I was in every town, I wondered around town and took pictures of buildings, people, and pretty much everything. Certainly, the most important is to stop by the public library for the internet to read all your kind words of encouragement.
By the way, probably, as we rode into town, we form a long pace line toured around town to look for hotel. The local newspaper tracked us down and requested to take our picture and publish the story. Who knows a group of rebels who do not want to follow schedule became celebrity.
Until next time
Sault Ste Marie – Thessalon – Massey – Manitowaing – Tobermory – Owen Sound – Alliston August 5, 2008
Greetings,
Did I tell you about the dinner and bar hopping? We have a fantastic dinner and I did something VERY WRONG after more than a few drinks!!! I have agreed to sign up the Owen Sound Duathlon sprint on Aug 3rd. The race is going to run 2k, bike 20k and then run another 5k. It happened that we heard about the race and started to talk about doing it for fun. So, after more than a few drinks, two will be racing the individual triathlon, two will be racing the individual duathlon, and two teams of three will be racing the team triathlon. We vowed that after the race, we are going to have dinner again and more drinks. All of us were very excited about the race and definitely more about the dinner afterward.
Because of the race, we have to double up the distance from Manitowaing to Tobermory and Owen Sound. Since we have to take the early ferry from Manitowaing to Tobermory, we woke up early, finished breakfast and made a death rush for the 40 km ride to the ferry. It end up that we still have time to have our second breakfast before we board the ferry at 8:30. After we have arrived Tobermory, instead of heading to the camp, we have to ride another 120km to Owen Sound. Since the house of our host’s parents use septic tank and not able to handle the volume if we are all going to take a shower, we held the soap and dived into the lake instead. We stayed at a cabin in the wilderness after another great dinner. The starry night is really an eye opener. I have hesitation to return to the cabin to sleep because of the stars.
Anyway, the next day we have to ride another 10km into town for the race. That will be funny if anyone asked about our training: we rode 5000km for the past six weeks or so, but we have never really run or swum during that period, except some casual jogging or playing in the lake during rest days. Then, we rode 170 km the day before the day of the race and another 10km on the day to the race. Anyway, we all finished the race; although I found that I can hardly run for my first 2km before the ride and not until the 5km run after the bike ride that I have found my legs. There is definitely special satisfaction to pass by those expansive bikes with wheels making funny noise. Having said that, I have to admit that in a second when the result was announced, I was a bit disappointed that I can only make the fifth in the age group. However, immediately, I have accepted the excuse that I was not properly trained and I should be happy to have the standing in my age group. As we all agreed, we headed to dinner and with more laugh and drinks. The race result has been totally forgotten after the first drop of liquid in my mouth.
I am now happily tapping the keyboard in my friend’s house. Today is scheduled to be our rest day in Alliston, where in the vicinity of Toronto. In a few days, we should be in the capital of the nation, and by the end of the month…………………………..
Until next time.
Darlington - Carrying Place - Ivy Lea - Ottawa – Hudson August 11, 2008
Greetings,
We are in Quebec, at long last. Maybe because the scenery of Ontario, having shoreline of the lakes, is too close to the west coast of BC, especially Vancouver Island, I am not really that impressed. Fortunately, Ottawa, my favorite city because of the canals, did not disappoint me.
We have a rest day in Ottawa, so that I can sleep in till 6 and cleaned up my bike, before heading to a local radio station - CHIN FM 97.9, for an interview in one of the program. Ottawa is definitely a city that should have stayed for more than a day because of the gallery and museum. Even after mass at the cathedral, I have to walk around the cathedral as the building itself is an art already. However, I have to look for a new camera as the old one quit on me. The screen started to get dimmer and dimmer for a few days. Then, today, the camera can no longer operate. Certainly, that’s just passed the warranty period. It almost like the manufacturer has a build in mechanism inside the camera to make it malfunction right after the warranty period. It was so frustrated that I was not able to take any picture for the whole day today.
One of my goals for this trip is to meet all of my friends along the route. So far, I have visited my childhood friend in Calgary, basketball team players in Saskatoon and Toronto, high school classmates in Ottawa. Then, I am going to visit another long time friend in Montreal. Probably because of the sympathy for the peanut butter sandwiches and kidney beans, they provided me with excellent food both in quality and quantity. I have been well fed every time. Ummmmmm, you have to understand that I have to have six sandwiches most of the days now, if not eight for long days, in between two breakfasts, lunch, afternoon tea, and supper. The portion of every meal has been double I used to have. I know, if I keep on eating like this when I am back home, I will be in serious trouble. As of now, I need to have the quantity to keep pedaling. Then, after being commented by a driver about my rear engine at the highway somewhere in between Alberta and Saskatchewan, I go for canned food whenever there is kidney bean in the menu. To be on the safe side, I also stayed away from ice cream or milk. You don't know how much I miss chocolate milk!
Speaking of food, during the route, there are veterans from the previous years, set up tent or open the trunk with water, coffee and snack, at “points of interest“ along the route, which may be the top of a long and steep climb, or half way of a boring long ride in the middle of no where, to cheer us up. That is a touching act. They did it only because when they cycle across Canada, they think that it will be nice if someone can offer them a drink or a snack at that point.
By the way, I am surprised to know that not everywhere in the country have cellular phone service and not all towns have a public pay phone. It is something I have been taken for granted, just like hot water for shower. Also, a bit of Geography 101: while the 49th parallel is often thought of the Canadian boundary with the US. That is only true in the Western part of the country. I was told that more than half of Canada’s population lives south of the 49th parallel around the Great Lakes and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Also, we are not riding the curvature of the earth either. When we passed through Hanna, Alberta, we are at the northernmost point on the entire trip – 51 degree north. The southernmost point on the rout is at Oshawa, east of Toronto at 43 degree north.
Until next time
Hudson - Quebec City August 15, 2008
Greetings,
The weather has been changed quite obviously after Ottawa. Mornings and evenings are getting a lot cooler. Seeing your breath should not be considered as warm any more, I suppose. I have been using arm warmers and leg warmers during the morning ride. They can be stripped down around noon time, as it started to warm up. Then, we have ONE day that I have to actually put on the arm coolers………………… although it rained after a few hours when I can still see that bright round stuff high above. I always think that it is either sunny or rainy, but not at the same time.
Ottawa and Quebec City are two cities definitely worth to stay for more than one day. Once we rode into the province of Quebec, the food has been a lot better, even for the pubs, and the buildings are quite different with the rest of the provinces that we have passed through. There is a church in almost every town and sometimes even in the village. The history of those churches are usually dated back a hundred years ago. Some of the cathedral even have bodies buried underneath. It appears that the churches in Quebec are usually wide open for the public, unlike churches of the other provinces that usually are locked up except a given time on Sunday.
If you can only speak limited French, travelling in Quebec just like travelling in a foreign country, with the exception that you can still guess the meaning and most of the people can speak various levels of English. Even with the language barrier, I think Quebec is the province that I enjoyed the most, so far.
Quebec appears to be very friendly to the cyclists. There are bike paths in almost every city and town. Walking around, you can see lots of cyclists in Quebec City. Cycling seems to be a very popular sport in the province. Same as the other provinces, local people are very friendly to the cyclists. They do almost anything to help the cyclists. A local tried 10 minutes to explain the history of the church to us………….. ALL in French. However, one thing to remind all the cyclists is that the traffic rules appears to be a mere suggestion. People crossing street at will, cars changes lane without signal, and parking are as long as the space can fit your vehicle in.
As for the communication side, internet café is definitely rare. Public pay phone does not appear in every village or noticeable places in the town. Cell phone connection is hit and miss. Sometimes, I doubt about how we rated in compare with the developing countries.
Until next time
kidney beans August 15, 2008
Several of you have asked why my rear engine was commented. It happened that my stomach did not go along well with kidney beans after continuously having kidney beans for a few days. A number of fellow riders as well do not pass only wind, the frequent visit to the washroom caused more than inconvenience, especially when on the road. Since there is hardly any bush along the roads of Alberta and Saskatchewan, unless you take the chance to climbed over the fence into the field and wet your bike short; when someone pull aside and take off their pants, anyone can see the rear engine from a mile away.
What I found is that cyclists and runners alike, after some time, they all used to go to the bushes when nature calls. But when it is urgent and there is no bushes, there is no shame any more.
Quebec City – Riviere Ouello – Trsis Pistoles – St-Damase – Atholville – Petit Richer
August 20, 2008
Greetings,
Goodbye la belle provence, said hi to New Brunswick. We are in our sixth province now. I have a very good impression to Quebec. The province is so cyclist friendly that almost all towns, small or large, have designated bike path. Then, there are always tasteful special dishes which vary from one local eatery to another. Even with the language barrier, people are trying their best to help us order the right dish. The only sour note is that one of our riders got into traffic accident and has to take to hospital by ambulance. The good thing is that he is back on the saddle after a few days ride on the truck. It was a scary moment for all of the fellow riders, when we gathered at the scene and learned what had just happened from the riders who witnessed the accident.
As we are closer to the sea, I am expecting to have more seafood. That’s what I have been looking for lunch everyday now. There is nothing better than having lunch and look for somewhere to take a power nap. Just like today, we stayed by the side of the church that blocked the strong wind and took a power nap of 20 minutes, and moved on for another 50km before we look for another place for food again. It is a simple life................
The trip is coming to an end in 10 days. We are already counting for the days to come. It has nothing to do with the ride. We all enjoy the ride and I really do. The thing that tired us down is to set up the wet tent and take down the soaking wet tent. In case it is not raining, like the evening we were camping by the beach, we have a camp fire and watch the sunset. When the sun eventually disappeared behind the hills in a distance, we sat close by the fire, listen to the tide, and enjoyed the priceless moment that people from the city can only dream about.
Until next time
Petit Richer - Saint-Louis-de-Kent – Shediac August 22, 2008
Greetings.
Once we left la belle provence, signs in English are everywhere. Maybe this part of New Brunswick is close by Quebec, or people of New Brunswick in general, there are still a lot of people speaking in French. Interesting enough, their French is definitely different than Quebec. Then in Quebec, the flag of Quebec is everywhere. So far, as I can see in New Brunswick, the Acadian flag, as well as signs of Acadian is everywhere.
Having my laundry done and bike cleaned last night, I intended to sleep in today, something like till 7am. But the early risers start to have coffee around the picnic table like the kitchen table of their own house well before 6am. On second thought, they have already slept in. They usually start before 5. Rather than sharing their repeated life long stories, I don't have much choice but to leave the comfort of the sleeping bag and take my occasion morning shower (the water in this campsite is warm enough to do that).
Today is a rest day. With few exceptions, the campsite of the rest day is usually far away from town. This time, the campsite is a few km from a village that the only cafe has an aged sign stating "closed for the season". The intention may be that rest day is for REST ONLY. For me, I didn't intend to ride six thousand plus kilometers across more than two third of the country and sit by the tent.
The sky is actually blue and having only clouds far, far away. The sun is shinning and not as windy as the past days. Having a change of clothes in my backpack, I decided to ride forward along the coast to explore towns like Richibucto, Bouctouche, Cocagne, etc. Then, join the group tomorrow at the scheduled campsite. The coastal route is a longer route than the scheduled route for tomorrow, but the scenery is definitely worth it. There is not a lot of traffic along the coastal route. Miles and miles of sandy beach along the coast, with the smell of sea from the wind, there are some fishing vessels operating away from the shore. No camera can do the justification in recording this. Sitting on the rock and trying to record the picture in my mind, I am glad that I am not sitting by my tent.
As for the food, I am not disappointed at all. Starting from Mc Lobster in Macdonald to lobster dinner in local eatery, there are sea food platter to you name it sea food dishes in between. The only slight disappointment is that the selection of local beer and wine is far less than Quebec. Other than that life is good.
Until next time